***New Improvement packaging of 3*20gm packs***

Iron Chelate Fe DTPA 10% - 60gm (Dry aquarium fertilizer) - Premium Grade

**Move to air tight container if the pack is opened and partially used **

Iron (Fe) is one of the most important nutrient that must be supplemented in planted Aquariums. Its an important nutrients to keep the Green plants GREEN and Red plants RED! Iron deficiency will lead to chlorosis and retarted plant growth!

Preparing Stock Solution and Dosage for Fe DTPA 10%

The Target ppm for Fe in a fairly dense planted tank is between 0.1 to 0.2 ppm. Let keep our target as 0.2ppm. To reach a target of 0.2ppm Fe you will need to add 20grams of DTPA Fe (10%) to your 2 Liter stock solution. Add 10mL of that mix to every 50 liter of aquarium water. 

With the new improved packaging you get 3 packs of 20gm each. Each 2liter stock solution only needs 20gm. Which means you don't have to open the other packs and it remains fresh for years.

Dose these levels 2-4 times a week for EI. Classic EI depends on good CO₂, good circulation, and regular water changes. Fe should always be dosed during the photo-period. It will get absorbed very soon, so after a hour or two from dosing, the ppm level would be almost negligible.

Iron chelate Fe-DTPA is best suited Iron form for aquatic plants.

Technical information below :
Why is iron important in your Aquarium?

In mass, iron is one of the most plentiful elements on the planet and one of the oldest metals known to and used by humanity. In Plants, iron serves many functions but is an essential component in the production of chlorophyll, the site of photosynthesis. Without enough iron, plants cannot produce enough chlorophyll, leading to retarded plant growth characterized by inter-veinal chlorosis. Iron also plays a major role in many other proteins and reactions

How Oxygen complicates Iron uptake.

Iron is a little tricky to manage because it is very reactive. It exists in a variety of ionic states, primarily as Iron²⁺(II; Ferrous Iron) or Iron³⁺(III; Ferric Iron) and transitions readily between them depending on environmental variables like oxygen. Unfortunately, because it is highly reactive, iron is typically unavailable. It toggles between soluble and insoluble forms, forms compounds with other minerals and (generally in aerobic environments) plays hard to get. The problem? Ferrous iron is available to plants (it’s soluble). Ferric iron is not (it’s insoluble). Ferric iron is the more oxidized form, whereas ferrous iron is less oxidized.



Things grow more complicated because as soon as ferrous iron becomes soluble in aerobic environments, it is often oxidized (becoming ferric iron) OR it reacts with other compounds to become biologically unavailable (especially at high pH values when different hydroxides are formed).

Because aquariums are generally aerobic (and certainly aerobic in the root zone), iron deficiencies can often arise—even when there is technically plenty of iron within the system.

Now, this relationship between oxygen and iron isn’t a full-time thing. In reality, iron is flitting between ferrous and ferric states, but the dominant state in high-pH and oxidized environments are ferric; this means that your plants cannot take it up. These details are important because they dictate how we examine the solutions.
Supplementing Iron --> Wrong approaches.

Many practitioners throw rusty iron items into their systems falsely assuming that this will supplement system iron.

In a sense it does add to the reservoir of system iron, but not in a constructive or meaningful way. All this does is introduce more ferric iron to the system—a form of iron that was most likely already in plentiful supply. In low-pH systems, ferrous iron has a much better chance of reaching the root zone, simply because there are fewer hydroxyl (OH–) groups to react with along the way. However, even in the absence of hydroxyl groups, there are many other chemical obstacles to reaching the plant root zone in adequate quantities.

Iron Deficiency leads to inter veinal chlorosis

How to supplement Fe in aquariums?
To supplement iron, Chelated iron must be added to systems. Chelated iron is an artificially chelated iron ion—essentially, iron attached to an organic molecule to make it soluble. By adding chelated iron, iron deficiencies in your plants can be avoided. pH of water is an important consideration while selecting the type of Iron chelate you must use in your aquarium.

The most common forms of chelated iron are:

FeEDTA: This is the cheapest form of chelate available in the market but is not the best. Also it is typically only effectively up to the pH range of 6.3 or 6.4. Above this range, it is not a stable chelate. So, using FeEDTA in your consistently pH 7.0 aquarium represents a significant amount of money wasted in comparison to other forms of chelated iron. For this reason, we do not recommend FeEDTA. It is ironic that this is the most commonly sold and used form of chelated iron in aquariums as it is fairly ineffective. The primary reason to have Fe-EDTA in almost all commercially available micro nutrients fertilizers is to keep the manufacturing cost low.

FeDTPA: This is what we recommend for most systems at pH values between 6 and 7.5. However this is not readily available in garden store or local fish store.

FeEDDHA: For aquariums with pH values up to 9.0 (let’s hope your pH never gets that high!),you should and must use FeEDDHA. This is the most expensive and the best all-around form of iron chelate, however it will most definitely make your water RED!

Thankyou!